Oddbins Winter Press Tasting

An interesting line up of around 400 new wines. The tables were helpfully and clearly split into various categories including a "Focus Table" featuring around 20 'good value' wines. Here's some highlights from my tasting notes.

Prosecco Ca'Rosa NV, Veneto, Italy - clean, fresh, crisp with lovely floral, pineapple and citrus notes. Good mouthfeel on palate, nicely-balanced with fresh acidity. £8.99

Jansz Premium, NV, Tasmania, Australia - clean, fresh, dry 'New World' fizz with attractive elderflower and citrus aromas and without the aggressive acidity. Good length. Proves that Tasmania, being cool-climate is the region which can potentially produce the best Aussie sparklers. £11.99

Langlois Cremant de Loire Rose Brut, NV, Loire, France - salmon-pink colour, elegant, floral, wild red fruits, strawbs and cream, quite easy-drinking and very pleasant. Good alternative to a pink Champagne. £12.99

Angosto White, 2008, Valencia, Spain - interesting aromatic white wine blend. Grape varities are verdejo, muscat, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Exuberance and freshness comes from the verdejo and sauvignon providing the clean, citrus notes. Aromatics, tropical and floral characteristics comes from the muscat and the structure comes with the chardonnay which is partly-fermented in barrel. Everything is well-integrated and balanced and each grape adding its own personality to the wine. A similar wine to a white Rhone or those being produced in the Priorat region. Complexity and body comes in via the wine spending two months on its lees, providing it with a good mouthfeel. A quirky wine which just needs to be discovered. £7.49

Godello, Alma de Blanco, 2008, Monterrei, Spain - this grape variety from northern Spain offers a slightly similar style of wine, yet is a great alternative to drinking the very fashionable (and becoming quite expensive) albarino. This is lighter, less intense, but more sherbety, fresh and crisp. No oak, a pleasant fruit-driven wine to be enjoyed either on its own or with fish and seafood dishes. £8.99

Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie, Domaine de la Follette, 2008, Loire, France - a great partner to oysters and shellfish. Light, crisp, dry without that austerity and searing acidity which can be typical of this style of wine. It's a shame that more people chose not to drink it, possibly in favour of the Sancerre, which has become disappointingly ubiquitous. Very underrated £7.99

Menetou-Salon, "Morogues" Domaine Pelle, 2008, Loire, France - my 'Old World' white wine of the day. A great example of a Loire Valley sauvignon blanc and a wonderful alternative to the Sancerre coming from the neighbouring AC. This wine has now been bottled with the screwcap closure (locks in all that freshness) and features a new label. Tight, restrained, grapefruit, pure and expressing the minerality of the terroir. Great length with wonderful fresh acidity and as consistent as ever. £13.99 ( a pound cheaper than the Sancerre too).

Pouilly-Fuisse "Tete de Cru" Chateau de Fuisse, 2004, Burgundy, France - a quintessential white Burgundy, mature and drinking really well right now. In the past, I've always been a little bit disappointed not only by this producer, but also for the AC in general, as I feel it under performs. I'm very fond of Burgundy, yet there are still some interesting discoveries to be made amongst all the 'big names' with lofty reputations and price tags. In fact, some wines are really quite underrated, but at the end of the day you do get what you pay for. However, this one amongst all the others from the same region that I tasted just seemed to tick all my boxes and met with all my expectations, especially as it's a pricey £19.99. Should be good if you wanted to push the boat out during the festive season.

Whirlpool Reach Riesling, 2008, Tasmania, Australia - made by the talented Andrew Pirie and goes to show that this grape variety is very well-suited to the cool climate of Tasmania. Crisp, dry, fresh, lots of zesty citrus, especially limes and grapefruit, yet is floral and delicate. Could be drunk either as an aperitif or great with fish and seafood. £9.99 and my 'New World white wine of the day'.

Amayna Sauvignon Blanc, 2008, Leyda Valley, Chile - I've been watching this winery for many years and I'm a big fan. They are leading the way and I feel at this price giving the Kiwi's a run for their money. Very expressive, elegant and balanced style, which remains very consistent and just gets better every time I taste it. At £14.99, which is a very competitive price they also deliver on quality.

Cono Sur "20 Barrels" Chardonnay, 2007, Casablanca Valley, Chile - New World chardonnay always gets a bad press. Taste this one and I think you may be converted and surprised. Good use of oak, vineyards located in the cool-climate region of the Casablanca Valley at high altitudes, producing a wine which is clean, elegant, restrained, fruit-driven and quite a pleasure to drink. There's no need to chew on a plank of wood anymore. £13.99

Santenay "Clos Genet" Domaine Borgeot, 2007, Burgundy, France - a good well-made Pinot Noir displaying attractive wild red fruits, freshness, elegance and all the attributes of a quintessential red Burgundy. On the youthful side, yet already approachable and starting to drink nicely. £18.99. For an extra five quid you could splash out on the premier cru "Les Gravieres" from the same producer, which has more depth, structure and meatiness. This wine would benefit a bit more time in the cellar before drinking.

Chateau de Brague Bordeaux Superior, 2006, Bordeaux, France - a good, straight-forward 'quaffing' claret. Plummy, fleshy, high-proportion of Merlot, soft, supple and very affordable £8.99

Chateau Rocher Corbin Montagne-St Emilion, 2005, Bordeaux, France - produced in a lesser known, up-and-coming Bordeaux satelite AC on the outskirts of St Emilion. Very good example coming from the great 2005 vintage, displays a dense, plummy, rich character, well-structured, good concentration with savoury tannins, nuances of oak and very harmonious. Good value £15.99

Monte La Sarda Garnacha Vinas Viejas, 2008, Aragon, Spain - a fruit-driven, approachable style of wine which could be drunk either on its own or with seasonal food. Very juicy, ripe forest fruits, fragrant, quite powerful yet elegant. Plenty of freshness on the palate to balance up the deceptive 14.5% alc. Good value and goes to show there's some good, exciting wines being produced in other lesser known Spanish regions. £6.99

Altico Syrah, Bodegas Carchelo, 2007, Jumilla, Spain - almost Barossa Valley-like plummy, rich, spicy black fruits and fruit cake. Afterall, Jumilla is known for these big powerful and spicy reds, more so for the monastrell grape. Lots of szechuan pepper, spice, hints of liquorice with a voluptuous powerful body. £10.99

Condado de Haza, 2006, Ribera del Duero, Spain - as consistent as ever, 2006 was a great vintage and this was my 'Old World red wine of the day' and at £18.99 great value for money. Ribera del Duero has always been my favourite red wine-producing region in Spain, ever since I visited the vineyards on a trip in 1997. This is a 'classic' - harmonious blend of forest fruits, plums, spice, cedar and cigar box. Will drink really well now, especially with some roast meats such as lamb, but also game dishes, yet will continue to age for a further 5 years without question. For a special treat, don't over look the big brother wine 06 Pesquera owned and made by the same family, as it's also fabulous and very classy. Only another extra couple of quid £20.99

Vina Leyda "Las Brisas" Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2008, Leyda Valley, Chile - really proves that you can actually find a decent New World Pinot for around a tenner. Produced in what is currently considered to be the most up-and-coming and successful regions in the world, especially for this fickle grape variety. This one ticks all my boxes and doesn't dent the wallet too much either £10.99

Concha Y Toro "Winemaker's Lot 500" Malbec, 2008, Cachapoal, Chile - very 'New World' style, soft, voluptuous, fruit-driven style and quite jammy. Packed with ripe red fruits, plums and cherries with a nice clean fresh balanced finish. £7.99

Urban Malbec 2007, Mendoza, Argentina - charming, slightly brooding, but with more of a savoury 'Old World' character. Earthy, forest fruits, supple tannins and very drinkable. Good value £6.99

As with Iberian varietals, during the Autumn and Winter months I really feel that the red Rhone wines taste at their best. They seem to express themselves very well, especially with the seasonal food. Grape varities such as grenache, syrah, mourvedre with their peppery, spicy, black fruits aromas and flavours will compliment dishes such as hearty game, venison, duck and so on. Oddbins presented quite a few good examples which are all worth buying, including one or two interesting discoveries: Beaumes de Venise Pascal, 2004 - an AC noted for its sweet muscats, yet produces some excellent quality reds. 80% Grenache, with the rest a blend of Syrah, Carignan and Mourvedre - meaty, earthy, quite tannic and definitely needs food, probably would age well £12.99. Sablet Domaine de Boissan, 2007 - deep, well-structured, spicy, slightly gamey, harmonious and approachable. Good value £10.99 The Gigondas from the same producer is also good. Made from old vines, a touch more powerful and a great alternative to Chateauneuf-du-Pape £16.99 why spend £20-30 or more on a bottle when you can enjoy this? Vacqueyras Domaine de Grand Montmirail, 2005 - a reliable, consistent wine which is softer and more charming than the Gigondas. Lovely, attrictive ripe forest fruits with a hint of spice £15.99

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz/Viognier, 2007, Victoria, Australia - this was my 'New World red wine of the day'. A wonderful, elegant, harmonious Rhone blend, with a mix of Old/New World characters. Aromatic, peppery and savoury notes combined with ripe black fruits with bags of finesse and freshness. The wine, at 14% alc, is well-structured, yet doesn't get heavy like some Aussie reds can. A really good food wine and great value £14.99

Craggy Range "Block 14" Syrah, 2007, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand - you simply have to taste this if you reckon that NZ wine is just Marlborough sauvignon blanc. This is a top-class winery with Steve Smith MW at the helm and is produced in Hawke's Bay which is gaining a fantastic reputation espcially for red wines. This syrah certainly packs a punch, as it's full-bodied, yet very well-balanced and more akin to the French style as opposed to the Aussie shiraz. Will cellar well too £16.99

Discover the magic of Tokaji

This week in London the first ever tasting dedicated towards the wines of Tokaji was held. Decanter Magazine worked in partnership with the Tokaj Renaissance and it was a wonderful opportunity to showcase some of the best examples coming from the region. There was also an interesting seminar presented by Stephen Brook. Having visited the region on a couple of occasions, I was also keen to taste some newer wines and to make some discoveries. Most of the wineries included at the tasting have UK agents and representation, but some didn't, which makes the situation a bit more challenging, especially when you wish to purchase the wines over here.

Here's a selection of my tasting notes, comments and highlights:

DRY WHITES:

CHATEAU PAJZOS: 07 Tokaji Furmint Reserve (dry) - in my opinion, this was actually the best dry white wine I had tasted for the day. Dry, powerful, complex, plenty of depth, structure, expressive minerality, purity, elegance and a very long finish. Yet all this comes at quite a hefty price tag. On the same table, some dry white wines from the Sauska range (Zempleni) were shown. These included a dry furmint, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. However, even though they were quite well-made, varietally-expressive, clean, pure and straight-forward, I genuinely felt that it would take some convincing to purchase them at the price.

DISZNOKO: 07 Tokaji Dry Furmint - dry, clean, fresh, citrus, displaying some good minerality and balanced acidity. Bottled with screwcap closure, which I think manages to lock in the freshness and aromatics proving very suitable for this style of wine.

DOBOGO: 07 Tokaji Furmint (dry) - dry, powerful, aromatic, 'international' style

PATRICIUS: 07 Tokaji Furmint (dry) - clean, dry, fresh, pure, wonderful expression of terroir, mineral, aromatic with lovely notes of stone fruits. A real discovery and even better when I was told that it's available from Waitrose.

SAMUEL TINON: 03 Tokaji Szamorodni (dry) - Samuel Tinon is a very talented French wine maker, who comes from the region of Bordeaux. He came to Hungary in 1990 and cut his teeth at Royal Tokaji and Oremus during the exciting and innovative period of the 1990's. His winery was established in 2000. The first vintage of his own label Samuel Tinon wines, from his own vineyards and made at his own winery was in 2001. However, not enough was produced to be released. This style of wine is quite 'traditional' in the region, as it undergoes an oxidative process during its vinification quite similar to the French 'vin jaune' of the Jura. This is quite a quirky wine and may come as a shock to some people, if they've never tasted it before. It's dry, sherry-like, rich, nutty, yet has a long finish, which is not only concentrated, yet fresh and very balanced. In Hungary, this style is mostly drunk as an aperitif, but I think it would be a really good partner to food. Similarly to a dry sherry it has versatility. I would enjoy it most with cheese, especially Alpine Gruyere and Comte.

SWEET WHITES:

DISZNOKO: 5 sweet wines were shown on their stand including 07 Late Harvest, 00 Aszu 5 puttonyos, 01 Aszu 5 puttonyos, 00 Aszu 6 puttonyos and 99 Aszu 6 puttonyos - my stand out favourite was the 00 Aszu 6 puttonyos for its sheer concentration, citrus, marmalade character, sweetness, yet nicely balanced and fresh.

DOBOGO: 04 Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos - this year's winner at the IWSC awards. A very good example of a sweet wine, plenty of richness and concentration, yet remaining fresh and elegant. A very focused wine, which reward some more time in the cellar before drinking.

PATRICIUS: I was most impressed by the range presented by Peter Molnar. A relatively new winery to the region, as the first vintage release was in 2006. The first wine made was a 00 Aszu 4 puttonyos. However, they've become very successful quickly and have achieved a good reputation and a high-profile. Certainly one to watch out for. I really enjoyed most the 00 Aszu 6 puttonyos 'Bendecz'

As you would say in Hungary - "Egeszsegedre!"

Robert Giorgione

The New Douro wine tasting

I attended the "New Douro" tasting at the Tate Modern and was happy to discover a few interesting finds. It was also an opportunity to 're-acquaint' myself with the "Douro Boys". The primary focus was the 2007 vintage and its latest releases, whites, reds and vintage ports. 2007 was an exciting year in the Douro Valley. The yields were low and the grapes achieved a good concentration. Due to cool weather in August and early September maturity slightly delayed and resulted in a late, slow harvest, which was carried out under excellent conditions until mid-October. This brought exceptional balance to the wines, which already display a wonderful harmony of freshness, charm and finesse. Moreover, the vintage ports declared from this year are probably amongst the most elegant ever.

Here a selection of my tasting notes and highlights:

WHITES: 07 "Altano" , Symington Family Estates - a blend of the 'usual suspects' of white indigenous varietals, clean, fresh, straight-forward, citrus, good acidity

07 "Tres Bagos", Sauvignon Blanc, Lavradores de Feitoria - clean, aromatic, herbaceous nose leading to an intense tropical, stone fruit palate with plenty of mouth-filling texture and weight. However, perhaps a little flabby, lacking in acidity and too much emphasis has been put on concentration. Interesting wine though, yet trying to be too 'international'

08 "Redoma" Branco, Niepoort - light, crisp, fresh, aromatic and very food-friendly

08 "Redoma Reserva", Niepoort - aromatic, stone fruits, nutty, floral, reminded me of a cross between a white Rhone and a Chardonnay. Nine months in oak. Quite 'international' in style and very appealing to the modern wine drinker

08 Quinta de la Rosa White - disappointing

08 Moscatel Gallego, Quinta do Vallado - floral, peachy, apricots, aromatic, yet nicely fresh, similar to an Alsace dry Muscat. Good aperitif wine or partner to vegetarian and Asian dishes

08 Reserva Douro White, Quinta do Vallado - a blend of indigenous varietals, tight, restrained, clean and really focused, expressive minerality and refreshing acidity enabling balance and a long finish. My white wine of the day

08 "VZ" Douro White, Quinta do Vale Dona Maria - a wonderful white produced from low-yielding old vines at high altitude, fresh, clean, barrel-fermented in 100% new French oak and then spends a further eight months maturing, giving some spice nuances, yet well-integrated, complex, leesy, citrus, long finish. Has potential to age and will be a great partner to food. Very impressive

REDS: 07 "Post Scriptum", Prats & Symington - rich, ripe black fruits, cassis, morello cherry, deep concentration, focused, well-balanced, long persistent finish with plenty of freshness

07 "Chryseia", Prats & Symington - inky purple, huge concentration, violets, cassis, black fruits, spicy, aromatic, mouth-filling voluptuous texture, yet balanced and fresh

07 "Meruge", Lavradores de Feitoria - produced from old vines, including 70% Tinta Roriz, complex, multi-layered, fresh, nuances of spice, cedar and forest fruits. Would benefit from more time in bottle to harmonise and reminded me of a Sicilian Nerello Mascalese. Had a real personality

07 "Redoma", Niepoort - huge concentration, bags of texture and colour, luxurious, spicy, black fruits, could probably only manage a glass owing to the style of the wine trying to be too 'international' and overly complicated. Needs time to let this brooding monster calm down before letting it out of its lair

07 "Duas Quintas", Reserva, Ramos Pinto - fragrant, bright, opulent, lots of black fruits, plummy, morello cherry with supple tannins and plenty of freshness

07 "Duas Quintas", Reserva Especial, Ramos Pinto - produced from low-yielding 80 year old vines, deep, well-structured, concentrated, powerful, complex, spicy black fruits. Needs time and food

I kept the best until last, as the range of red wines which impressed me the most was from Quinta do Vale Dona Maria. Each of the four reds I tasted stood out with their own identity and personality. The first wines were produced in 1997 and much of their success can be attributed to the extensive variety of old and traditional indigenous vine plantings. Vinification also takes place in the traditional lagares where the grapes are normally foot-trodden, then a temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel before being transferred to mature for 15 to 24 months in French oak barrels.

07 "Van Zelllers" Douro Red - clean, fresh, focused and pleasantly balanced, very approachable

07 "Casa de Casal de Loivos" Douro Red - fresh, fruit-driven style coming from vines planted on a high altitude vineyard close to Pinhao. Good concentration, slightly herbal, spicy and savoury black fruits

07 "Quinta Vale Dona Maria" Douro Red - opulent, fragrant, elegant, yet powerful, a pure expression of its sense of place, typicity and the traditional style of Portuguese wine made with care, attention and finesse

07 "Curriculum Vitae" Douro Red - only 6,000 bottles produced. North-facing slopes of the same vineyard of the previous wine, but has an identity and personality of its own which warranted a separate wine. More savoury, earthy, herbal and floral. My red wine of the day.

Out of the many 07 vintage ports I tasted the following were personal stand outs: Niepoort; Quinta do Vesuvio; Quinta do Noval and Graham's

The glorious return of Auntie Claire

It was a Friday lunch in November 1996. This moment stood out for me and eventually became the turning point in my gastronomic education. Up until then, almost every time I ventured up from my home city of Bristol to London, the coach drove me up Royal Hospital Road to Victoria station. I always looked to my right to try and catch a glimpse of the famous restaurant La Tante Claire. However, it was never possible to look through the windows because they had a reflective glass on the outside almost like a mirror. I heard so much about the restaurant and its legendary chef patron Pierre Koffmann. This situation of not being able to see inside made it more tantalisingly curious and interesting. I so wanted to eat there. On that day I went there with my good friend and colleague Julian Robinson we made sure that we had the rest of the day off. Afterall, this was back in the 1990's...still the days of the long lunch. The week before we had a great experience at Chez Nico (another three star Michelin restaurant). In fact, Julian was married to Natasha one of Nico's daughters. I asked him where shall we go next. He replied we have to go to eat Koffmann's food. That would surely be the icing on the cake. It certainly was. A truly memorable experience. We finally made it. We were on the inside. Koffmann was at the top of his game and arguably the best chef in the country at the time. It took ages to get a table. However, little did I know that in a few months time I would lose one of my best friends (Julian left Oxo Tower to be Restaurant Manager at Hotel du Vin in Winchester and was tragically killed in a car accident in early 1997). I thought to myself I will make it my personal aim to one day work for Pierre Koffmann.
In 1997, whilst still at Oxo Tower, I decided to change my career and specialise in wine. I trained as a sommelier, filled Julian's shoes and ended up being promoted to Head Sommelier within two years. I love food and wine. In fact, the latter was my hobby and now it was my job. I was being paid to do something I really enjoyed and had a passion for. In 1998, I remember when Pierre Koffmann came for lunch at Oxo Tower. This was probably around the time when he was moving the restaurant from its original location to the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge. His wife had died and the restaurant site on Royal Hospital Road was taken over by Gordon Ramsay. It was a busy lunch service and I was working the back section, including a big table of six people right by the kitchen. In restaurant terminology this was called Siberia. This was the table that Pierre Koffmann was sitting on. In the heat of the busy lunch service, rushing around, offering advice, taking orders, serving guests and so on I headed over to the table to see if they were ready to order the wine. I looked up to be confronted by the bearded genius, who looked at me, smiled and requested the wine. I kept eye contact with him for a few moments, took the order, smiled, nodded, but my jaw just dropped because I realised that this was a culinary legend, my hero and he was eating in my restaurant. Discretion plays a huge part in restaurants. However, certain restaurants have become very trendy and high-profile. Go there to see and to be seen. Chefs, like footballers have become superstars. You only have to open up every daily newspaper and glossy magazines and you'll see a whole host of 'celebrity chefs' splashed all over the pages. This was never Pierre Koffmann's style. He actually is quite shy and has always shunned publicity. I was the only person to recognise him on that day. I'm sure that really didn't matter one iota to him though. This is the chef who worked for many years for the Roux Brothers at Le Gavroche, then open up The Waterside Inn in Bray and then went onto gain three Michelin stars and run one of London's best restaurants ever. Moreover, pretty much every chef at some stage during their career has ended up working in his kitchen. His alumni at the 'Koffmann culinary university' include Marco Pierre White, Eric Chavot, Tom Aikens, Gordon Ramsay, Mark Askew, Paul Rhodes, Jason Atherton, Tom Kitchin, Helena Puolakka, Raphael Duntoye, William Curley and Claude Lamarche and many others. This was considered to be the 'S.A.S of kitchens' because he was such a demanding hard task master, yet such an amazing mentor.
Thanks to Thierry Tomasin I ended up working as the Head Sommelier at La Tante Claire between 2000 and 2002. When I returned from the USA in early 2000 I bumped into Thierry at a wine tasting and he mentioned this to me. I jumped at the chance to work for my hero and a week later I was having lunch with Pierre and an interview. We went to RSJ, a little restaurant on the South Bank, who specialised in good French food and had an amazing wine list which focused on the Loire Valley. I started at La Tante Claire a week later. It was such a shame that the restaurant eventually closed down in 2002. Most of the chefs got jobs in other places or went back to France. Some of my colleagues went onto other restaurants or even travelled further afield. Afterall, my ambition was to go to Australia. I had a couple of job offers, one in Sydney, the other in Melbourne and my visa application was in process. We all kept in touch and some 'reunions' over the years to celebrate our friendship and bond. I was still on course with my epicurean odyssey. Would the wind in my sails blow me in another direction?
It was during the Summer of 2009 that a friend of mine had heard that Pierre was going to re-open the restaurant and that former chefs from his brigade would be 'guest chefs'. The 'pop up restaurant' was to be on the roof at Selfridges in London for a week during the London Restaurant Festival. In fact it was extended to last three weeks because of the demand and ended up being fully booked for lunch and dinner for the duration. It was touted at the hottest ticket in town. The four of us enjoyed an exemplary meal with all the 'classic dishes'. Scallops with squid ink sauce, pan-fried foie gras, partridge, lievre a la royale (jugged hare), Challans duck, pig's trotter, pistachio souffle and croustade aux pommes. This is proper food, exemplary cooking of the highest order. Simple as that. Prepared, presented and executed with care, attention to detail and love. Never over-complicated, faddish or 'trendy', yet always true and consistent. The occasion brought back so many wonderful memories. Just goes to show how a great person like him is loved and respected and has been genuinely missed over the years. I think we should watch this space?

Definition of a 'boutique' winery

I'm not really sure of who first coined the phrase 'boutique' winery, but I'm pretty certain that it was probably some marketing boffin somewhere. As a result it has entered our vinous vocabulary and particular examples have achieved cult status, affordable only by affluent connoisseurs and wine collectors. Some have become the 'must haves' or the ones to name drop in restaurants or at a dinner party. I think it's amazing how the power of one word can have. However, has it become mis-understood or over-used?
The term 'boutique' refers to a small shop or a speciality department within a larger store. So, how can this be related to a winery or wine itself? Does it mean (by the very nature of a shop) refer to the amount of sales? No, it refers to the size of the production or output. In general terms, one feels that 'boutique' can be applied to a wine or winery which is less than 5,000 cases. Thus, this excludes certain wineries such as Gallo, BeringerBlass, Mondavi, Constellation and others, who are at completely the opposite end of the scale. However, a bit of a quandry here, because I truly believe that even some of these huge vinous behemoths can produce wines in a smaller, more specialised way whereby they could be called 'boutique'. For example, Penfolds, the Australian wine producer has approximately 45 different wines bearing its brand name. However, surely the 'iconic' Grange Hermitage certainly fits in with the 'boutique' wine model?
How relevant is price? Are all 'boutique' wines expensive? Can a 'boutique' winery produce cheap wine? Of course it can. However, it all depends on the image, the brand, core values and how and to whom these wines are marketed. For instance, there's a huge difference between a bespoke Saville Row suit and one bought in a high street retailer. With the term 'boutique' I genuinely believe that it's important to take into consideration the wine maker's ethos, passion, philosophy, feeling, artisanal craft, hands on approach and all that 'personality' and 'intimacy' which is communicated as a result by the use of just one word.
To sum up, I feel it could be defined as a winery which produces wine in limited quantities, aimed at a particular niche in the market, whereby displaying the passion of the wine maker, individuality of the harvest and a true sense of place are expressed.

Penfolds "Dream Fourteen" with Peter Gago

Penfolds, the great Australian winery was established in 1844 and over the years has evolved into a large business with a broad range of wines in its portfolio. It is a truly wonderful Australian wine house with a remarkable history and heritage. Originally, as with most of the Australian wine industry over a hundred years ago the grapes were grown and traditionally made in a fortified style, similar to ports. Even up until the present day these wines are a link to yesteryear and are an integral part of the country's vinous heritage and development. However, for most people, because certain wines they produce are widely-available, especially on the high street and the brand itself very prominent, sadly perhaps the result is that the product has become generalised and misunderstood. It has certainly required a lot of patience to build up something so strong. Thus, we're not speaking of an 'overnight success' or a 'one-trick pony' either. Every wine within its range (currently around 45 wines) has something 'special' about it and carries an identity and personality. From top to bottom, white and red, I'm convinced that for everyone who has ever tasted a Penfolds wine, be it the latest release of Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet (first created in 1976) or the iconic "Bin 95 Grange Shiraz" there is a personal 'favourite' there for everyone. There's a style to suit all tastes and budgets. Most people also associate the brand with red wine. In fact, this is probably its strength, but it also has a good, yet small selection of whites. This includes the "Bin 144 Yattarna" Chardonnay, first produced in 1995, which marked a new chapter in the Penfolds story. It was dubbed as "The White Grange" and has gone onto be one of the 'iconic' Aussie Chardonnays. Recently, I was most impressed when I tasted the 06 "Bin 311 Tumbarumba" Chardonnay. Quite European in style and more similar to a white Burgundy than your 'typical' New World Chardonnay. It displayed more minerality, zesty citrus notes with pleasant balanced oak and acidity which underpinned the wine in its more restrained style. Will age well too for another three to five years.

You see, for me, Penfolds has such a wonderful range of wines, including these two examples and reds such as "Grange", "Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon", "RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz", "Magill Estate Shiraz", "St Henri", which I would find more appropriate to be served in fine-dining restaurants around the World. These wines are appreciated by the collectors and connoisseurs and rightly deserve their status. They're also the kinds of wines, even though the brand has become very recognisable which need to be sold by a good sommelier, who not only understands the wines, but who will drink and enjoy them. For me, Penfolds means consistency, reliability, individuality, expression and heritage. Moreover, this is right across the board at all levels. With these 'high echelon' wines, comparable with the great clarets, red Burgundies and red Rhones and so on, many Penfolds vintages build up complexity and richness with further bottle maturation. There is an extra ethereal and textural quality that comes with patience. Of course, like with all wines of this nature you can experience some bottle variation. It is widely-recognised that the 1955, 1962, 1963, 1971, 1976, 1983, 1986, 1990, 1991, 1996, 1998, 2002 and 2004 are great Penfolds vintages. Over the years, it has changed hands and has been under different ownership. Currently, it's part of the Fosters EMEA group. This consistency over the years is so important, not only because it is at the core of their brand values, but the expectations of the consumers are met. A trust and loyalty has been created.

At present, Penfolds wines are better than ever, yet they honour the ideas and philosophies from the past. Every wine has the ability to express its own style and sense of place. Ever since the 1950's (which we will call the Modern Era) there have only been four wine makers responsible for producing Grange. These are truly 'master craftsmen' producing wines from distinguished vineyards in South Australia with much artisanal care and attention using great resources. During this modern era, a 'top down' approach to wine making has been employed at Penfolds. A few years ago, I was fortunate enough to meet Peter Gago (Penfolds Chief Winemaker) when we hosted a tasting and masterclass at Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols. He was also over in London to hold one of their re-corking 'clinics'. I can visualise (in a style of Antiques Roadshow) people queuing up, clutching their prized bottle, waiting for Peter sitting behind his desk to taste, assess and re-cork each and every wine. As with rarities, antiques and fine wines, provenance is vitally important.

I was delighted and very excited when I was asked to attend this recent tasting held at the Institute of Directors in Pall Mall, London called "Dream Fourteen". He first joined Penfolds in 1989 and in 2002 took over the mantle from John Duval as Chief Wine Maker. Personally, I think he's one of the best orators and wine communicators I've ever met. He's a natural educator and has the capacity and ability to transmit his energy, passion, feeling and vast knowledge of all of the wines to his audience. A remarkable skill. This comes across in a very personable way and never arrogant, but always confident. I'm sure he knows these wines like the back of his hand. The line-up was to include some very rare wines going back to 1955. A real vinous treat. Here's a snapshot of my tasting notes and highlights of the evening.

1990 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon - reflecting the outstanding vintage (in particular in Coonawarra) with a higher proportion than normal sourced from this region. Displays a clean, deep, intense aroma of black fruits, cassis, plummy, hints of spice. Palate well-structured with harmonious, silky tannins, well-integrated, long, persistent finish with plenty of freshness.

1990 Bin 90A Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz - Cabernet (two-thirds) sourced from Coonawarra, Shiraz (one third) sourced from Barossa Valley and aged in 100% American oak for 20 months. Displays rich, earthy, foresty, spicy and wood aromas. Opulent, deep, voluptuous on palate, rich, ripe black fruits, Szechuan pepper and vanilla.

1990 Bin 920 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz - selected vineyards of Coonawarra. Displays a rich, dark, brooding character. Palate very clean, focused and precise, black fruits, slightly herbal, yet quite straight-forward and I feel doesn't express the complexity of the previous wine.

1990 Grange Shiraz - one of the greatest vintages in history, yet still the potential to rival the 'classic' 1955, 1962 and 1971. Always produced with mostly Shiraz (previously called Hermitage), but up to 5 per cent Cabernet (normally from Coonawarra) is also added. Vintages of Grange containing 100% Shiraz are 1951, 1952, 1963, 1999 and 2000. This one is powerful, yet silky smooth and elegant. Spicy black fruits, velvety texture, well-balanced, vibrant, complex, still fresh and has a very long persistent finish. Could probably still age for another twenty years.

1955 Grange Shiraz - this wine has become one of the 'icons', considered one of the best ever produced and is included in the Wine Spectator's "Wines of the 20th Century". In 1962, was the first Grange to be acknowledged internationally at the Sydney Wine Show. An exceptionally long-lived wine, containing 10 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and only spent nine months in American oak. Mature, brick red hues, nose displays earthy gamey aromas, slightly 'wild', spicy nuances. Palate still vibrant, complex, earthy, cedar, forest fruits, coffee, leather, yet this one had a touch of volatility, which was a little disappointing. I tasted my neighbour's glass, who had a different bottle and it was magnificent.

1962 Grange Shiraz - first Grange to be made from mostly Kalimna (Barossa) rather than Magill (Adelaide) fruit. A wonderful example and has won many awards. A blend of 87% Shiraz and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Displayed earthy, herbal, vegetal, cedar aromas with a wonderfully balanced and elegant palate. Well-structured, yet supple, clean, fresh, still lively, complex with a long powerful satisfying finish. A memorable bottle which I feel overshadowed the '55 on this occasion. The wine I would enjoy with dinner.

1971 Grange Shiraz - first one tasted was corked (unfortunately!). Had a sip of neighbour's and it was voluptuous, rich, lots of ripe black fruits, opulent, slightly earthy and a whiff of truffle, plenty of guts. To quote Max Schubert in 1993: "If you had a point to a wine which fulfilled all the ambitions of Grange, it would have to be 1971." In South Australia, they also had a 'textbook' growing season and vintage harvest.

1996 Grange Shiraz - For a few of us this was the star of the show, an exceptional wine, a decadently rich, multi-layered, powerful wine, generous, complex, lingering, fragrant, opulent, ripe black fruits, morello, concentrated, brooding as I felt there was something behind all this which I just couldn't put my finger on. Mouthfilling, big texture, yet so bright, focused and a length which just goes on and on...

2004 Grange Shiraz - already surprisingly approachable after its release early Spring 2009. Stylistically in the mould of 1990 and 1996. 96% Shiraz and 4 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich, plummy, spicy and dense, slightly chocolatey, morello cherries, almost like a great Black Forest gateau in a glass! Palate clean, tight and restrained. Even though it's already drinkable, it would reward around 15 years of cellaring.

1962 Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet/Barossa Shiraz - my wine of the evening. This one really impressed me for sheer complexity and harmony. A blend of two-thirds Cabernet and one-third Shiraz. Mature, yet still vibrant with no evidence of fading. Plummy, damson, forest aromas similar to a claret in the traditional mould. Evolved very well, good structure, well-balanced tannins, supple, yet still with the potential for further ageing. Utterly superb. A great example and very enjoyable. Has been hailed as the best ever Australian wine.

1967 Bin 7 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon/Kalimna Shiraz - produced from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Shiraz and a style of wine created by Penfolds very much at the forefront of the Special Bin Series of the 1960's. A well-combined wine harnessing the structure and savoury tannins of Coonawarra and the voluptuous, fleshy, spicy black fruits of Kalimna. Intense, powerful, aromatic, brooding, rich, earthy with some autumnal nuances. Mature and drinking really well now.

1971 St Henri Shiraz - for some this was the wine of the evening. A bit like 'Marmite', which polarises people in a way that you either like it or you don't. Quite a contradictory style of wine, in an 'old school' way. Great in the 1970's, yet disappointing in the 80's, except 1986. St Henri, in a similar fashion to traditional claret can age very well and this '71 was a great example. Powerful, deep, rich, exotic, meaty, earthy with bags of complexity. However, it's a wine which requires quite a certain amount of thought and (I would presume) food as well. I was being spoilt, as this was my first ever St Henri experience. If you can get your hands on the '04 then buy some as it should be very good.

1996 Kalimna Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon - made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from a very small old vineyard. In fact during 1996, exceptional conditions in the Barossa Valley presented themselves with the opportunity to make this great 'one-off' special bin wine in the tradition of the Bin 60A. However, this one comes from the oldest Cabernet vineyard in Australia (110 year old vines), part of which went towards the legendary '53 Grange. It displays all those varietal notes of savoury, spicy, black fruits and cedar. Very expressive, velvety texture, pure, precise and plenty of finesse. Would grace any great restaurant table and reward the imbiber with much satisfaction.

2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon - the result of a beautifully aromatic, perfectly ripe and balanced vintage harvest from this small old vineyard, yielding only 500 cases. This is the 'essence' of Cabernet. The nose shows intense, blackcurrant, dark chocolate and liquorice aromas. Fresh, youthful, pure, huge concentration, yet focused and balanced. The sheer volume and weight of fruit explodes across the palate, giving tremendous depth and length of flavour. Buy, put it away and don't touch it for around 20 years.

I would like to express a huge thank you and my appreciation to Peter Gago, Linden Wilkie and Chris Stroud for giving me the opportunity to taste these fabulous wines and be part of a very enjoyable and memorable evening.

Crostini di fegatini (chicken liver crostini)

In Italian life, as well as its cuisine, bread features very highly. I remember my Nonna going down to the bakery to buy the big round loaf of fresh bread. There was always plenty of bread and wine on the table. On talking to my father, who spent many years living and working in the city of Florence before coming to England in the early 1960's, I also discovered that in Tuscany, and in fact Florence in particular the crostini are a local speciality. However, he pointed out that the Tuscan bread normally contains less or no salt, thus having a different taste and texture. During May 2006, before starting at Orrery restaurant I toured Italy with my sister for about three weeks. We spent a few days in Pisa and about a week in Florence itself before heading south. I can distinctly remember the restaurant we ate a lovely lunch down a little side street near to the Santa Croce Cathedral. At Baldovino, they specialised (like many other Florentine restaurants) in a wonderful selection of crostini. Delicious little morsels to be enjoyed with a glass of wine or a beer. In Italy, you can take some of the most simple ingredients and turn them into a feast. Bread, some tomatoes, a touch of garlic, a pinch of herbs, a sprinkle of sea salt, a grind of pepper and the best, most fragrant extra virgin olive oils. You could just make a simple bruschetta by just using the former and the latter. Nothing better, especially when the bread is still warm from being taken out of the oven. A simple peasant snack which normally hits the spot. Of course, you may wish to be a bit more creative and adventurous with your choice of toppings. As always, it depends on the quality of the ingredients. This is a recipe for chicken liver crostini which can be enjoyed all year round and can be served hot or cold.

Ingredients: 8 slices country bread; 8 chicken livers; 1 onion; 2 anchovies; 2 tablespoons butter; sage leaves; half tablespoon tomato puree; 2 tablespoons capers; half glass of wine; salt and pepper; 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan; butter to grease the baking tray

Chop the onion and the anchovies and allow to take colour in the butter; add the livers and the sage leaves and fry for a little longer. Then remove the livers from the pan and chop very finely. Add the tomato puree, the finely chopped capers and the wine to the butter, allow to warm through, and then combine the livers with the sauce and the cheese. Season to taste and spread the liver paste on the slices of bread, cut in half. Place on a baking tray greased with butter and grill in a pre-heated oven on high for five minutes.

n.b the slightly superior and more delicate flavour of the crostini in Tuscany in comparison with ones made according to this recipe does not derive from the local atmosphere. Tuscan housewives and cooks spread chicken livers with 50% melts. This local secret is not mentioned in the presence of tourists.

Buon appetito!! Enjoy this and let's all raise a glass to Keith Floyd.

Tasting Italy - A Culinary Journey

This book was written by Alice Vollenweider. It's an outstanding all-in-one travelogue, cookbook and literary guide, whereby the author displays her passion for Italian food with mouth-watering servings of authentic local dishes. All the main regions of Italy, including Sicily and Sardinia are introduced by their cuisine and the book features many recipes and useful information on where to eat and drink. Personally, on reading the book I found it quite inspiring and helped me also to re-count two particularly fond memories of travelling around Italy. My experiences have been highlighted and can be summed up with these recipes from Tuscany. I remember my Nonna going to the farmhouse in the countryside, where they kept rabbits, chickens, had vineyards, fruit orchards and olive groves and asking my sister which rabbit she liked. My sister and I must have been around eleven and nine years old respectively. Whilst our backs were turned our Nonna must have grabbed the rabbit and put it in the bag. I remember rather ignorantly and naively carrying it (the bag) back to the family house. That evening, as always we eagerly asked what was for dinner. The answer from Nonna came "rabbit stew". My sister and I just looked at each other. That was many years ago, but I still find it amazing that food and situations like that can be so evocative. This dish I have enjoyed many times and has become a firm favourite, especially when using pappardelle. I also think this is the perfect type of pasta to be cooked with a hearty meaty sauce, such as this because the thick ribbons get nicely coated resulting in a flavoursome and substantial dish. About ten years ago, I even had this in a restaurant called "Tra Vigne" in St Helena, Napa Valley in California and the chef's recipe was delicious and very authentic.

Pappardelle col coniglio (Ribbon pasta with rabbit sauce)

Ingredients: 500g pasta; 1 rabbit; 1 bottle red wine (preferably Chianti or similar from Tuscany); 1 onion; 1 celery stick; peppercorns, thyme; bay leaf; 100g butter; pinch nutmeg; salt and pepper; 1 tablespoon flour; 200ml cream

Have the rabbit cut up into stewing pieces and place them overnight in a dish to marinate with the chopped onion, celery, spices, covered with the wine. The next day drain the marinade off and reserve with the onion and celery. Pat the meat dry with kitchen paper and fry until nicely golden brown in 30g of butter. Season with salt and pepper, and gradually pour in the marinade, including the vegetables, then leave to simmer in a well-covered casserole dish until done. This should take around two hours. Now put the stew in a sieve, reserving the cooking juices. Melt 30g of butter in a frying pan and fry the flour in it (making a roux); add the sieved juices, followed by the cream, and allow to simmer on a low heat for about 15 mins, season with salt and pepper and add a pinch of nutmeg. Meanwhile, carefully separate the tender rabbit meat from its bones and return the pieces to the sauce. Boil the pappardelle pasta in a separate pan with salted water until al dente drain and combine in a warm bowl with 30g butter and a couple of spoons of the rabbit sauce. This will coat the pasta already with the sauce, bring everything to the table and serve with more sauce on top and grated fresh Parmesan.

Mmmm delicious and even better with a bottle of Chianti.

New Generation Wines

New Generation Wines was established in 2005. These guys are going places. I particularly admire their dynamic energy and enthusiasm for the wine business, balanced with a 'can-do' attitude, pro-activity and realism for promoting, marketing and selling wines with a very positive approach. Moreover, we all know how important it is to have the right agent/importer/distributor for our wines. However, I also think to be dealing with the right people and to build up a relationship, almost like a bond is equally as crucial to the overall strategy and success of the business. Their portfolio is certainly developing and recently I had the opportunity to taste their range at Manicomio in London. Back in 1998, I used to be assistant to Hamish Young, whilst at Oxo Tower. At NGW he's the Commercial Director and was very excited by his newest addition to the portfolio - Mahi wines from Marlborough, New Zealand. The wine maker Brian Bicknell (formerly of Seresin Estate) was also there to present his wines. Having known Brian for more than ten years, I really believe that they are the right people and his wines will fit perfectly into their portfolio. I'm sure 'world domination' is not on their minds and they're much smaller than companies such as Bibendum, Berkmann and Liberty, yet they have managed (in a relatively short space of time) to acquire onto their list such names as Alex Gambal, Brancaia, Schiopetto, Boekenhoutskloof/Porcupine Ridge, Pegasus Bay/Main Divide, Herzog, von Siebenthal and many others. Most importantly, this will add to their credibility to be taken seriously. Anyway, enough ranting from me and onto the wines...
Here's a few of my tasting notes: n.b all prices are ex vat duty paid (trade prices)
07 Fixin Blanc, Alex Gambal, Burgundy, France - dry, quite delicate, round, clean, fruit-driven and already approachable, but I'm sure would develop over the next 5 years £16.73
06 Puligny-Montrachet, Alex Gambal, Burgundy, France - dry, quite powerful, rich, opulent ripe fruit, yet restrained, displaying good minerality and fresh acidity. A keeper 5-7 years £27.36
07 Bordeaux Blanc, "Grand Bateau", Chateau Beychevelle, Bordeaux, France - dry, fragrant, rich, ripe tropical fruit, clean, very drinkable £6.94
07 "Figure Libre", Maccabeo, Domaine Gayda, Languedoc, France - dry, nutty, complex, quite interesting, but a bit pricey £11.15
07 Syrah, Domaine Gayda, Languedoc, France - peppery, spicy black fruits, hints of the garrigue aromas, quite robust and flavoursome £5.77
08 Weissburgunder, Erste & Neue Kellerei, Alto-Adige, Italy - don't be confused by the Germanic sounding grape variety, it's actually pinot blanc (bianco). Fresh, clean, crisp, dry, apples, aromatic, good acidity £7.46
08 Gewurztraminer, Erste & Neue Kellerei, Alto-Adige, Italy - floral, turkish delight, lychees, clean, fresh, aromatic, quite 'Alsatian' in style, nicely balanced, very food-friendly £9.40
07 Friulano, Schiopetto, Collio, Friuli, Italy - clean, fresh, aromatic, good texture, nutty, stone fruits, very good length and food-friendly £12.45
06 "Tre" IGT, Brancaia Estate, Tuscany, Italy - a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet and 10% Merlot, a good fruit-driven, modern style of an 'entry' into this legendary Tuscan estate. Vineyard selection from Chianti and Maremma. Old French oak barriques used for added complexity, but nicely balanced and supple tannins £9.99
08 Pegasus Bay, Sauvignon Semillon, Waipara, NZ - fresh, crisp, dry, herbaceous, 'Bordeaux style blend' £10.19
08 Mahi, "Twin Valleys" Chardonnay, Marlborough, NZ - dry, leesy, focused, restrained, expressive, persistent, good acidity, needs time £9.31
07 Herzog, Pinot Gris, Marlborough, NZ - made in the 'ramato' style i.e a little skin contact, funky, aromatic, pears, quince, stone fruits £14.81
07 Pegasus Bay, Riesling, Waipara, NZ - personally I think they make one of the best rieslings in NZ and I also believe that Waipara is the most suitable location, fresh, off-dry, zesty, aromatic, delicate, stone fruits, good acidity but never aggressive, very food-friendly £9.55
06 Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Waipara, NZ - cool climate great location for this fickle grape variety, elegant, cherries, damsons, supple tannins £14.58
08 Mahi, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, NZ - robust, well-structured, yet very attractive, complex, fruit-driven, yet hints of spice, violets and savouriness, needs time £11.06
01 "Spirit of Marlborough", Hans (Herzog), Marlborough, NZ - a Merlot-dominant 'Bordeaux blend', plummy, earthy, complex, deep, harmonious and everything spot on and well-integrated £15.75
08 Reyneke, Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa - dry, aromatic, subtle minerality, slightly honeyed, lightly oaked, hints of spice, good acidity £9.68
07 Boekenhoutskloof, Semillon, Franschhoek, South Africa - dry, tropical, honeysuckle, spice, vanilla, but fresh and nicely balanced £11.85
08 Porcupine Ridge, "Wolftrap", South Africa - solid, spicy dark fruits, firm structure, assertive personality, becoming known as 'the baby Chocolate Block' Good value £4.68
08 Porcupine Ridge, Syrah, South Africa - warm spicy nose with hints of juicy black fruit, fig and cinnamon on palate £5.33

Buy smarter and drink better wines

How does one buy smarter and drink better wines? This is quite a big question. Many years ago, due to my Italian father wine was introduced to me at a young age because it's very much part of the family culture and heritage. In fact, for a few generations there has been a vineyard owned by my family back in Italy. We always had a little taste of something to go with a meal and as a result I grew up with wine integral to life itself. Not only was I fascinated and wanted to learn about and understand the nuances and differences in tastes and flavours, but also this was done very responsibly thanks to my parents also teaching me the necessary self-discipline and respect to not abuse alcohol. Subsequently, wine started off as my hobby and then I made it into my career in London, working as a wine buyer and head sommelier of some top fine-dining restaurants for the past 13 years. Now, I have my own business, I'm a freelance wine consultant, writer and blogger. Hence, I have also been quite lucky because not only do I have the opportunity to taste many wines on a day-to-day basis, but also I get given a lot of samples to taste, either as part of my profession or judging on awards panels. However, the most important factor for me is knowledge. I have travelled all over the World, visiting vineyards, meeting the viticulturalists and wine makers, participating in vintage harvests and thus gained experience with regards to the whole spectrum of wine. My main aim is to share and communicate this information and passion in a wider context, so that in general people can learn about wine properly, to understand it and most importantly to enjoy it. Everyone has a personal taste. To have an open-mind and to know that you can always develop your own palate and make a discovery is a wonderful opportunity.
However, I think the general public, the wine consumer is confused. We are bombarded with so much information. Marketing, labelling, images, trends, fads, levels of alcohol, un-oaked, oaked, jargon, "winespeak", price and so on are all important determining factors which influence and convince you that you're purchasing the right bottle. I think the top priority when considering buying wine should be quality. Being smart and buying not only a wine which you like and suits your taste, but most importantly one which suits your budget too. Similarly, the theory or thought process which should be made when buying food. Like I said this is really confusing for the consumer, because normally we just make the 'safe choice' and go with what we know, or buy something because it's on 'special offer'. My 'barometer' for this are my parents, whereby I'm always hearing stories from my father about various vinous 'bargains' he's made in supermarkets. Quite ironic that he was the person who introduced me to wine, yet over the years my palate has developed to be more discerning. I very rarely purchase wine in supermarkets, because like I said I'm lucky enough to be given bottles by suppliers, wine makers and friends. Recently, I was quite surprised though that my local supermarket had on its shelves some 'bin ends' such as some decent Burgundies, Loire, Alsace and German wines and bargain prices. Even a certain 'iconic' Kiwi savvy was going for £7 a bottle. Normally, though supermarkets and these retailers use wine as a product (with limited shelf-space) to gain more footfall into their premises to spend money by offering huge discounts such as 'two for one deals'. Wine has been used as a 'carrot' which has been tantalisingly dangled in front of the consumers' face. The focus is not on quality. Personally, I genuinely feel that this strategy which they employ of aggressively driving the price down will gradually destroy the wine industry. It was interesting to note though that at the recent Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine Challenge (both held in London) that retailers such as Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Majestic won awards. They've greatly improved their range and I feel promote wine more positively. Aldi's were also given a 'commendation' by Decanter "for leading the way with good quality cheaper wine". Very relevant considering the current zeitgeist. Moreover, there is no human investment. How many times have you visited a supermarket and experienced the lack of staff or general advice, especially within the wine department? Very rarely is anyone clued up enough or trained to answer any questions you may have about choosing wine. This is a big problem.
Online wine merchants have become very influential and successful and have increased their sales. For instance, "The Wine Society", "Direct Wines" and "Berry Brothers and Rudd". One downfall here though is you can't actually taste the wine. So, clarity, ease of use, integrity, brand image and reputation, price, quality of service are crucial. This, I feel will become more important in the future, as this method of retailing will develop considerably. I would encourage you to taste as many wines as you can, build up a relationship with your local wine merchant. Perhaps join a wine club and link up with like-minded people. This takes time and you're not going to become 'a master of wine' overnight or just because you've read a couple of books and gone along to a couple of tastings, but I hope it will help with your overall understanding and enjoyment. The way forward, I believe is to purchase your wine from smaller, independent wine merchants. For example "The Sampler", "Philglas and Swiggot", "Selfridge WonderBar", "Tanners", "Green and Blue" and "Lea & Sandeman". Not only do they have an outstanding range of wines, but most importantly the are owned, managed and run by passionate, enthusiastic and caring individuals, who have the patience (using the long term strategy) and focus on quality to help point you in the right direction. The staff are more knowledgeable and friendly. Some of them also have these enomatic machines offering wide selections of tasters. A great way to make a discovery. Get to know these people, afterall they're part of the community, get them to understand your personal taste, build up that trust, even friendship and I'm sure as a result you'll be able to buy smarter and drink better wines.

Boutique Wineries Tasting

In these days of the 'big brand', talk of minimum prices for alcohol, and featureless bottles, it is essential to remember why we are all in this business: For the love of 'real' wine, made by producers who maximise the potential of their own beloved piece of terroir and who are passionate about producing truly outstanding wines in limited quantities. The sense of thrill and enjoyment I had to have the opportunity to taste some interesting, well-made wines, which had been produced with individuality, authenticity and provenance made this even more personally rewarding. To also be able to discuss, share, make discoveries and meet up with fellow open-minded and passionate people. Morever, there were a couple of social media seminars, which were invaluable experiences and provided an interesting look into the current situation and the exciting potential of how things will develop in the future. Very 'zeitgeist'...

Here's a snapshot of some of my tasting notes and highlights:

ALLIANCE WINES: 08 Hidden Valley, Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa - a fresh, clean, herbaceous style, hints of gooseberry and nettle aromas, good acidity £7.99 RRP
08 Lalla Gully, Pinot Gris, Tasmania, Australia - a fresh, clean, nicely-balanced Pinot Gris, pear/pineapple notes, but with good aromatics and mouthfeel, not overly alcoholic which can be a problem with New World PG. Shows that the cool climate of Tasmania is proving to be an ideal spot for aromatic varietals £11.99 RRP
07 Amayna, Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, Chile - an elegant style of New World pinot, cherry, damson and forest fruits, fragrant, supple tannins with firm structure, ripe, juicy, yet remaining fresh, focused and well-balanced and good acidity £18.49 RRP
07 Raats, Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, South Africa - well-structured, peppery black fruits, hints of spice, yet silky tannins, touch of savouriness and everything quite well-integrated and approachable. I'd tasted before the Chenin Blanc from the same producer and was impressed. The red didn't disappoint either. Can be tricky with young South African reds, as in their youth they can be a little raw and too powerful £17.49 RRP

HATCH MANSFIELD: 05 Domaine Carneros, Sparkling Brut, Carneros, California, USA - clean, dry, fresh, quite tight and restrained in style and a very good example of a New World fizz, but with the Champenois savoir faire £18.99 RRP
08 Esk Valley, "Black Label" Pinot Gris, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand - an aromatic, flavoursome Pinot Gris made tipping the hat towards Alsace, pear, quince aromas with a good mouthfeel, yet still clean and fresh. Very food-friendly £8.99 RRP (their Chenin Blanc is also good)

VERGELEGEN/PLB WINES: 07 Chardonnay "Reserve", Stellenbosch, South Africa - for a New World Chard this displays a wonderful restrained, mineral style and expresses the single vineyard from which it is produced. Focused winemaking from Andre van Rensburg(and a winery normally reputed for its reds) £13.99 RRP

WINEMAKERS: 07 Sauvignon Blanc, "Croatto", Enzo Pontoni, Collio Orientali, Italy - offers freshness, a good mouthfeel, aromas of citrus fruits and herbs and displaying good minerality. On the finish good length with mouth-watering acidity. One of the regions most highly-regarded wine makers. I preferred this restrained style to the more oaky Ronco del Gnemiz £14.50 RRP Please try it as an alternative to Sancerre

ELLIS OF RICHMOND: 08 Rivetto Bianco, Piedmont, Italy - this wine was not listed, but available to taste nevertheless. I'm glad the wine maker was there from the Rivetto family, as it was an interesting opportunity to pick his brains about this one. Made from the Piedmontese indigenous grape called nascetta it displayed similarities to gruener veltliner. Dry, fresh, crisp, aromatic and very clean. Apparently, only a handful of producers make this wine and some use it to blend in with other varietals such as riesling, chardonnay, arneis and so on, but it's limited quantities. A real discovery. Approximate price will be under £15 RRP
08 Pauletts, "Polish River", Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia - produced in one of the sub-regions of the Clare Valley, which over the years has become synonomous with riesling. This family has been making wines for many years and has become one of my favourites. Youthful, dry, fresh, apple, pear, grapefruit and lime zest and will become more oily with age. Great acidity, yet not austere, quite delicate on the palate. Will keep £10.95 RRP

SWIG: 05 Pyramid Valley, "Lebecca" Riesling, Marlborough, NZ - 'off dry' in style, almost like a German kabinett, delicate, aromatic, zesty, stone fruits and wonderful fresh acidity. Great aperitif, but also as a partner to Asian cuisine. One of my personal favourites. I also presented this wine on You Tube with Louis Villard from Imbibe magazine £15 RRP
06 Pyramid Valley, "Earth Smoke", Pinot Noir, Canterbury, NZ - a wonderful Pinot made by Mike Weersing in very small quantities, very Burgundian in style. Throw this one in a blind tasting and you'll probably think you're tasting a Vosne-Romanee. I'm a big fan £34 RRP
06 Schubert "Block B", Pinot Noir, Martinborough, NZ - from the more established region in NZ for Pinot. Made by the talented Kai Schubert. Quite earthy, some 'Burgundian' farmyardy aromas are starting to develop, yet even though the wine is well-structured it still remains elegant and nicely-balanced with ripe cherry and damson fruit, appropriate alcohol and fresh acidity £27.50 RRP A 'modern classic' of Kiwi pinots...one to watch

ECLECTIC WINES: 08 Hatzidakis, "Santorini" Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece - forget about retsina, you simply must try these wonderful wines which are being produced in Greece now. Very modern, dry, crisp, fresh, clean ripe tropical fruit, aromatic and persistent length. Assyrtiko is a great alternative to Sauvignon blanc and a real discovery. This one is produced by one of the best wineries in Greece £10.50 RRP

WINE AUSTRALIA: 06 Chain of Ponds, "Corkscrew Road", Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia - I remember the first time I came across this small family 'boutique' winery and tasted their wines was back in the mid-1990's. They swept the awards and gained a great reputation and soon became one of my favourites when I listed them whilst Head Sommelier at Oxo Tower. Moreover, they have proved that they're not just a 'one trick pony' and have consistently crafted very good wines over the years. The husband and wife team used to be one of the contract grape growers for Penfolds before creating their own label. Adelaide Hills is cool-climate, so it's generally better for these varietals and they maintain their freshness. A kind of wine I like to show someone who says they don't like Chardonnay £12.99 RRP

Overall, I thought it was a fantastic tasting. However, I didn't have the time to taste everything, because I also had another two tastings on the same day. Like I said, of the hundred or so wines I did manage to taste these ones stood out.

My thanks goes to Judy Hendricks for organising the event.

Sherry Mondays

It's funny as it only seemed like a few days ago that I was at Ransome's Dock Restaurant in Battersea attending a sherry tasting and masterclass hosted by Wines of Spain. Martin Lam provided such wonderful hospitality in the convivial surroundings and the sherry pairings with his food were a revelation. In fact, I even kept the menu to remind me of the occasion. Two things which stood out in my memory from the menu. The pairing of foie gras with oloroso and his sherry trifle made with Lustau's "Old East India" cream. When I ended up working for my hero Pierre Koffmann at La Tante Claire, I successfully introduced a great range of sherries into that traditional French three star gastronomic temple. In fact, I was his head sommelier for three years before the restaurant closed down at the end of 2002. One achievement I can say I made, (not only to work for such a legendary master chef), but also to have proved that if you're open-minded enough you can show that sherry can be drunk with any style of cuisine, even at the gastronomic 'top end' of fine-dining. The campaign to promote sherry amongst London's sommelier community to lead by Graham Hines and Charlotte Hey. That was in fact more than ten years ago (whilst I was head sommelier at Oxo Tower). It's amazing how the category (once seen as being very stuffy and having an 'old' image) has developed very positively by enthusiastic and passionate people, either restaurateurs, sommeliers, chefs, wine experts and journalists and is reaching a far wider audience, but also a younger one.

Recently, I attended the "Sherry Mondays" tastings and I was amazed by the diversity of styles and how things have really come along and are constantly evolving and changing. Almost like the solera system itself. The whole category is being 'freshened up' by the addition of this more contemporary, younger element. This up and coming 'criadera' of sherry afficionados are open-minded and keen to learn, experience and enjoy the differing styles of sherry on offer. They can provide such versatility with food pairings, the tastes and flavours, even with traditional cuisine, obviously tapas is a 'no brainer', but we were also discussing the merits of how it could work with modern pan-Asian dishes and sushi. I find it really encouraging that the 'younger generation' have grasped sherry with such an enthusiasm and positivity. Perhaps they don't have the 'hang ups' of the past such as we did about our previous generations. As pointed out by Graham, there's also more choice now, including different styles within each category, but some exciting 'modern' drier styles are also emerging. Whereas a few years ago it was a bit more limited. Nowadays, it's become more competitive and hence the need to be 'creative' has increased in importance to widen market appeal as a result. For instance to use sherry in cocktails. One or two newer bodegas were experimenting with very minimalist labels. However, it's also wonderful to see the traditional 'classics' which have become benchmarks (Gonzalez Byass, Williams & Humbert, Lustau, Hidalgo, Barbadillo and Valdespino) still remaining consistent as ever. These brands have become very strong over the years, yet they can't afford to rest on their laurels. Most importantly, quality has never been compromised, even though everything is evolving.

My favourites, which I tasted were:

MANZANILLA: Sanlucar de Barremeda "San Leon", Herederos de Argueso; "La Gitana", Hidalgo; "Solear", Barbadillo
FINO: Puerto "Colosia", Guitierrez Colosia; Puerto, Lustau; Jerez "Tio Pepe", Gonzalez Byass; Jerez "Inocente", Valdespino
AMONTILLADO: Jerez "Vina AB", Gonzalez Byass; Jerez "Jalifa", 30 years old V.O.R.S, Solera Especial, Williams & Humbert
PALO CORTADO: Sanlucar de Barremeda "Obispo", Barbadillo; Jerez "Dos Cortados" V.O.S 20 years old, Williams & Humbert; Jerez V.O.R.S 20 years old, Harvey
OLOROSO: Sanlucar de Barremeda "Faraon", Hidalgo; "San Rafael", Barbadillo; Jerez "Antique Oloroso", Fernando de Castilla
OLOROSO DULCE: Jerez "Dry Sack" Williams & Humbert; "Solera 1847", Gonzalez Byass; "Old East India" Lustau; "Rich Old Oloroso" V.O.R.S 30 years old, Harvey
MOSCATEL: Jerez "Emilin" Solera Reserva, Lustau
PEDRO XIMENEZ: Jerez "El Candado", Valdespino; "San Emilio", Solera Reserva, Lustau; 12 year old, Williams & Humbert; "Don Guido" V.O.S 20 years old, Williams & Humbert

Many thanks to the Wines of Spain team, the Commercial Office at Chiltern Street, Marylebone for an interesting tasting. Delicious tapas supplied by Brindisa.

All I can say is, I've played my part and will continue to play my part to promote sherry and to help people to discover it's beauty, versatility and food-friendly capabilities. I'm still hungry to learn and to develop my own palate and things are constantly changing and evolving. I think that's the challenge with sherry...there's always something new to learn and discover.

Spices - the epicurean odyssey to the South Bank

Having lived in Rotherhithe for the past twelve years, originally being born and bred in the historic port and trading city of Bristol, I have spent many times walking along the river. In fact, I'm absolutely fascinated by history and geography. Always have been from a very early age. The 'docklands' have always played an important part of my life. My namesake grandfather, whose family came from the East End of London used to tell me many stories of his father, uncles and so on who all worked on the docks. Tales of what went on if you ventured 'South of the River'. I've grown up being accustomed to the importance of such figures as Brunel and how their great feats of engineering have impacted on people over the years as a result. On these jaunts along the South Bank especially, I have thought many times and try to imagine how life would have been more than a hundred years ago. In particular, around this area called 'The Pool of London' with its hive of activity, the busy wharves and warehouses. Having lived in London for some time now, I think one could become complacent to how historic the capital is and most importantly how significant the River Thames has always been. Nowadays, you only have to look at street signs and place names, which are part of our day-to-day life and you'll have a clue of what went on in the past. The area of Bermondsey became known as "The Larder of London". For many years, the Thames has played its part within world trade, yet I feel unfortunately has declined over time to a lesser extent as other European rivers such as the Rhine and the Danube. Within this article, my aim is to turn the clock back and display how spices have been discovered, traded, brought to London, bought and sold, used as an ingredient incorporated within manufacturing other products and their overall influence on our gastronomy right up to the present day. Whilst we're grazing and shopping at Borough Market, we're possibly ignorant of the fact of how pepper, saffron, paprika, chillies, turmeric, cinnamon and other spices have become so integral, not only to the area's culture and identity, but also to our own. A real vibrant melting pot, yet perhaps this is taken for granted. With all our culinary trends and fads it's easy to forget that spices have played an important role for centuries.

I think it's key to point out some important dates, crucial to the development of the spice trade. In 1498, Vasco da Gama successfully sailed the first sea voyage from Europe to Asia arriving at Calicut, a south Indian city in the state of Kerala. However, as far as spices went he and his crew were right on the money. Then, as now, Calicut was a gateway to the world's greatest pepper-growing region. As such it was at the heart of the spice trade, a network of sea routes and entrepots in the making for millennia: the world's economy's oldest, deepest, most aromatic roots. For thousands of years before him and hundreds of years afterwards, the secret of the spice trade was simple: great demand and highly controlled supply. This 'black gold' has the ability to fetch high prices in world markets. A whole gamut of spices were discovered and brought back to Europe. Later came Cabral and Magellan. The trade was controlled by the key players (Venetians, Arabs and Portuguese) and later the Dutch, Spanish and English. The race for the Moluccas was on. Convinced that they had to gain control over the source of the spices, the Dutch got their act together. In 1602, the Dutch East India Company was formed. It was an association of merchants meant to reduce competition, share risk and realise economies of scale. By 1670, it was the richest corporation in the world. By the end of the 18th century the emergence of various rivals had broken the Dutch monopoly for good. It was evidence that, in just two centuries, Europeans had changed the spice trade forever. What was once limited to being produced in far flung tiny islands in hidden archipelagoes, were being grown around the world and in large quantities. Trade routes which spanned oceans had become commonplace, and therefore competitive. Later, the British 'muscled in' on the action and 'plundered' much of the trade away from the Dutch and Portuguese. By the 19th century British interests were firmly rooted in India and Ceylon. However, spices were no longer hard to come by and monopolies gave way to markets. I could also mention the importance of tea, coffee and cocoa, but I feel that those topics would deserve a separate article because its overall impact is even more extensive than spices.

Of course, today spices are chiefly flavourings for food, but many other uses have contributed to the demand throughout history. Particularly in Europe, though, food came to matter most. Spices acted as a preservative and could make things more palatable before they went off. Remember this was a time before refrigeration. Cast your mind back about 150 years. One of the sights of London that every tourist knows is Tower Bridge. However, until 1894 there was no bridge lower down the river than London Bridge. In earlier times people who wanted to cross the river east of this went by ferry boat. Many little old streets in Bermondsey led to steps going down to the river e.g Pickle Herring Stairs. Imagine being around the South Bank during this time a stone's throw away from Borough Market. The area of Tooley Street and the location which is now known as Hay's Galleria would have been the real hub. Until a few years ago the whole Bermondsey waterfront, along Shad Thames, around St Saviour's Dock and Bermondsey Wall, was lined with warehouses built right to the water's edge. Goods from all over the world were brought up the river and unloaded. Again, looking at the street and place names will give you an idea e.g Java Wharf, Cinnamon Wharf, Scott Sufferance Wharf, Clove Building and the overhead walkways between the buildings. This stretch of river was known as 'London's larder', as three-quarters of the butter, cheese, spices which became condiments and canned meat needed for the city was stored there. In 1651, Alexander Hay took over some property and warehouses in the area and established the Hay's Wharf Company. Later this became more and more prosperous, taking over wharves and warehouses all along the riverfront. Duties and taxes called sufferances were charged. As foodstuffs, including spices from all over the world were landed and stored here it was only natural that there were many processing and packaging firms. Crosse and Blackwell's made pickles in Crimscott Street, Sarson's vinegar and Hartley's jams were just off Tower Bridge Road. Around there was the place where tinned food began. These days you can hardly imagine a kitchen cupboard not stocked with tins or cans. Spices played an important role. For example, a product called 'spiced ham' was made, which later became known as 'Spam'. Nothing to do with computer jargon I can assure you. In 1970 (funnily enough the year I was born) a great period of London history came to an end when the docks were closed. Most of them are now swanky apartments, lofts and offices. A whole way of life has changed and it has been a sad time for men who had always worked by the river. Many industries have also closed, or moved out of London. Yet, in spite of all the changes, if you walk around you always see something to remind you of its history. I like to stroll down Pepper Alley past Southwark Cathedral on my way to Borough Market.

Any weekday, Borough High Street is full of traffic making its way to and from the City of London. This has been the case for around two thousand years. The market is well situated here in its present location and has become such a destination. For centuries, Borough High Street was a shopping street, always bustling, busy and prosperous. Whilst you're enjoying your cup of hot spicy mulled wine, walking around the market, I'm sure you're thinking how can one employ all this knowledge and passion into my purchases. How can spices be used properly in my dishes I wish to cook at home? Why do certain combinations work, but I've never given it much thought? Moreover, there's a wide range of condiments, chutneys and sauces which are packed with flavour available. The majority of our dishes which involve spices are rooted in the days of the British Empire, even before, and have evolved and been amalgamated into our national cuisine, yet in the modern context are taken for granted. Let's celebrate and enjoy a curry, but let's not forget how this all came about.

Here's a few suggestions of a some ingredients and wines to match. If you like Mediterranean cuisine, then Brindisa is the obvious choice. The tapas culture and lifestyle has become very popular, yet even though its simplicity is important you shouldn't skimp on the produce and its quality. They have a fantastic array of peppers, spicy sausages, chorizo, morcilla and hams and a great selection aromatic saffron (a staple of the paella) and paprika. I thoroughly recommend the "La Chinata" Pimenton de la Vera. I normally add a pinch of this smoked hot paprika to hearty stews, casseroles, risottos and stir-fry's and of course a great addition to a tomato sauce with garlic and herbs for a little extra heat. Iberian whites and reds work best, so try a light, aromatic and refreshing albarino, godello or verdejo or a more gutsy red from the Douro and Dao in Portugal with the peppery and fruity touriga nacional grape and Ribera del Duero in Spain with its more plummy, spicy and savoury style of tempranillo. Wright Brothers serve a delicious plate of oysters with chorizo. Even better when washed down with a chilled glass of dry sherry. Potted shrimps, an English 'classic'...why is mace traditionally used in the recipe?

Ginger Pig, Northfield Farm and Sillfield Farm are great butchers and have excellent meats. I love the combination of pork and apple. My preference is the shoulder cut for its flavour and I like to spice up the sauce with a hint of cinnamon and sage, again which are great combinations. Venison and seasonal game is also available at the moment and I feel it has a wonderful affinity with spices, in particular, pepper and juniper. Some chefs have even employed adding a hint of bitter chocolate and a pinch of chilli (similar to the Central American mole). With these strong and dominant flavours it's always best to chose a wine which will compliment and create a balance, almost mirroring the taste and character of the food. I would suggest aromatic whites such as riesling, gruener veltiner and gewurztraminer. Try Borough Wines who have a couple of good Austrian and Alsatian examples and Cartwright's for the whites from Alto-Adige in Northern Italy. For reds, try pinot noir or 'Rhone varietals', such as grenache and syrah work best. Bedales offer a good selection. In fact, these wines would work well with spicy foods in general, especially if you like fragrant Thai curries and our 'national dish' of an Indian curry.

Our British seasonal fruits also work well with spices. I've mentioned apples, but I think there's nothing more quintessential than the pear or quince. One of my favorite desserts (apart from my late-grandmother's apple pie) is a spiced pear in red wine with vanilla ice cream. Cinnamon, star anise, vanilla, cloves and nutmeg all impart their individual aromas into the poaching liquor. Spices are also involved greatly in sauces, preserves and jams. Next time you have a bottle of HP Sauce or Lea & Perrins in your hand read the back label. I simply adore the Stokes Brown Sauce available at the Ginger Pig butchers. It's so piquant and fruity and really perks up cold cuts, left-overs, egg and chips or a cheese ploughman's. However, I enjoy it the most with a real Melton Mowbray pork pie next door from Mrs King's Pork Pie stall. The old-fashioned piccalilli is also worth trying. Venture over to Arabica Food & Spice Co, Temptings and Cool Chile Company (all in the Green Market) for more produce. Actually, all this talk of cooking and spices has reminded me I should be getting on with making the Christmas pudding ready in time.

Tutored tasting of Domaine Huet/Vouvray and Kiralyudvar/Tokaj by Noel Pinguet

Both of these famous domaines are owned by Anthony Hwang. They are also under the leadership and management of legendary Loire Valley wine maker Noel Pinguet, who has been at Domaine Huet since the early 1970's. The domaine was formerly called Domaine Gaston Huet, but was re-named after its great owner died at a ripe old age of 92 in 2002. Noel (Gaston's son-in-law) took over control and continued the successful reputation. He started experimenting with bio-dynamic viticulture in 1988. Owing to its successful results, he went fully bio-dynamic at the domaine for the 1990 vintage. It has been considered that he and Nicolas Joly are the two main exponents of this in the Loire Valley.
I have been fortunate to taste quite a few vintages of his Vouvrays from their three vineyards, the oldest being a 1928, which was in fact the year the domaine was founded. I listed many examples whilst at La Tante Claire and Orrery. The main grape variety here in the Loire Valley is the chenin blanc. I feel a truly underrated and mis-understood grape variety, as it is made in three styles in Vouvray - sec (dry), demi sec (off-dry) and moelleux (sweet). Its diversity and remarkable expression, not only of the grape, but of terroir is also incredible, as this can be very different from year to year. The gamut of tastes, flavours and characteristics is enormous. This can range from light, crisp, fresh green apples, through lightly-honeyed pineapples and pears, roasted exotic fruits, plenty of minerality, toffee and butterscotch and always that trademark of chenin here very high acidity. This is very important, as it provides the firm backbone which runs straight through the wines very precisely and keeps everything in balance. It also gives the wines an almost unique potential for serious long ageing (apart from riesling). However, there's a precision with his wines and all of them taste very natural. For instance, in the last of the '08's the Vouvray "Clos du Bourg" Moelleux 1ere Trie, Noel informed me that a very small amount of a completely spontaneous malo-lactic fermentation took place whilst the wine was being vinified. Normally, all of his wines never go through this, as it's his main aim to keep that very high acidity, which is a kind of 'signature'. He just shrugged his shoulders in a very Gallic way and just said nonchalantly "c'est la vie...it's nature!" However, it's true...just let nature take its course with minimal interference and as a result the wines taste more pure and expressive. The question is when is the right time to drink a Vouvray from Domaine Huet? When do you catch it at the right moment? It's always to do with balance, which is why the acidity plays such an important role. They're so appealing and drinkable in their youthful state and then they seem to go into a hibernation. Sometimes for a very long time. It's so fascinating, as these wines are constantly evolving, not only in the bottle but in your glass. This was a great wine tasting. Very interesting, as not only was it an opportunity to meet Noel Pinguet, to ask him questions and so on, but also to taste the new releases '08 and many other vintages which he had lined up going back to 1949. Here's a snapshot of the wines tasted and some notes.

2008 - Vouvray New Releases: "Le Haut Lieu" sec; "Le Clos du Bourg" sec; "Le Mont" demi-sec; "Le Haut Lieu" demi-sec; "Le Haut Lieu" moelleux; "Le Mont" moelleux 1ere Trie; "Le Clos du Bourg" moelleux 1ere Trie.

The nuances of flavours ranged in the dry and off-dry styles, but overall this precision stood out. The wines are very fresh, with apple/pear/quince/pineapple notes, some lightly-honeyed, some displaying more minerality and delicate floral aromas. This high acidity is always present, yet never aggressive. Overall, I think this is quite a restrained vintage, quite appealing young, but still with that ability to age for a few years. The range of flavours and aromas present in the sweeter moelleux style were more fragrant, opulent, rich and concentrated (especially the Clos du Bourg 1ere Trie) with unctuous exotic fruit qualities. Yet again, the acidity keeps everything precisely in check and balanced on the palate. They will certainly become more complex with age.
Moving on now to the vertical of older demi-sec vintages. Or as it was written on the tasting sheet "a celebration of demi-sec through the years".
2005 Vouvray "Le Mont" demi-sec - dry, mineral, exotic, stone fruits, hints of spice, long balanced finish
2002 Vouvray "Le Mont" demi-sec - dry, clean, fresh, quite delicate, feminine, precise, grapefruit zest, searing acidity
2000 Vouvray "Le Mont" demi-sec - dry, smoky, toasty, aromatic, mineral, quite austere, plenty of acidity
1988 Vouvray "Le Mont" demi-sec - dry, clean as a whistle, yet rich, opulent, complex, mineral, roasted pineapple, quince, honey, evolving, very precise and still could age for many more years. This was my favourite overall of the tasting.
1971 Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" demi-sec - complex, in perfect harmony right now, to put it simply this one just ticked all the boxes
1962 Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" demi-sec - slightly oxidised, odd, well-evolved, yet once you got beyond that first impression there were rich, opulent toffee apples
1957 Vouvray "Le Clos du Bourg" demi-sec - herbal, aromatic, exotic, mineral, a bit of everything going on in the glass, complex, harmonious, almost as if a full orchestra was playing at its best
1949 Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" demi-sec - dry, exotic, honey, butterscotch, still lively with vibrancy, roasted pineapple, stone fruits, marzipan, good acidity and length. n.b this wine is sixty years old!!
To sum up it was a 'mind-bogglingly' interesting tasting, which displays such individuality and focus.
In the early 2000's, Noel Pinguet was brought in by the proprietor Anthony Hwang to work in collaboration with the pioneering Istvan Szepsy (he established Kiralyudvar in 1997 in Tarcal) and Zoltan Demeter at Kiralyudvar in Tokaj, Hungary. He is also in full control of running the domaine. Quite a challenge to continue in their footsteps in a foreign country and not in his 'comfort zone' of making great chenin blancs in Vouvray. Moreover, the main grape varieties here are furmint and harslevelu. You see the Hungarian personality and mentality is very different and he explained at first it was quite difficult. They're very proud and do things very much their way. Szepsy is a Hungarian 'iconic' wine making hero and the talented Demeter cut his teeth with him and then went on to be a successful wine maker in his own right. So, Noel, (as great as he is), is filling some pretty big shoes here. Having been to Hungary and visited the Tokaj region on a couple of occasions I can talk with first-hand experience. He's also experimenting now here with bio-dynamic viticulture with a 7 hectare parcel of vines. This will prove to be interesting as to whether the conditions in the region are suitable. A lot of the local people think he's mad, yet perhaps they're not as knowledgeable or 'open-minded' as him. The label has also been modified slightly and currently shows the French nomenclature "sec" (for dry) and "demi-sec" (for off-dry). So, a change in direction here from the old regime and Noel has put his stamp on things. However, the most important thing is the wine itself and I feel they still taste just as good and very consistent. A different direction though, yet the quality and reputation of this highly-regarded Tokaj domaine has not been compromised.
Wines we tasted were: 2008 Domaine Kiralyudvar New Releases

Tokaj Domaine sec - dry, fresh, grassy, mineral, aromatic, delicate, very precise
Tokaj "Becsek" demi-sec - off-dry, fresh, apples, aromatic, floral and very attractive
Tokaj "Cuvee Ilona" noble late-harvest - sweet, fragrant, hints of spice and bergamot, opulent, rich, yet very precise and focused. Good balancing acidity
Current vintages shown: 2006 Tokaj Domaine sec - dry, mineral, expressive, well-structured with good acidity. Good keeper.
2005 Tokaj "Becsek" demi-sec - rich, well-structured, round on palate, harmonious, mineral core, hint of 'nervosity' and tension similar to a Chablis or white Burgundy
2002 Tokaj Aszu 6 puttonyos - sweet, rich, caramelised oranges, thick-cut peel marmalade

A big thank you to Noel Pinguet for presenting his wines and to his UK agents and distributors Richards Walford and Quo Vadis Restaurant. It was an amazing experience.